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Ahhhh, the pleasure of relaxing outdoors amid the lovely flowers and continuously growing plants is so soothing.  While living in perpetual summer is fun for a true gardener- or anyone who likes more colors than snow white- tropical gardening has a downside, too.  WEEDS.   Unlike in northern climes, weeds do not have a dormant season in the Riviera Nayarit. Therefore, if you get annoyed by the presence of a particular species, like the prostrate spurge, left, there is no relief. Or you labor diligently to remove all pesky invaders only to have them reemerge a few days later. It’s an ongoing battle, but there are several steps that you can follow to come out on top in the gardener vs. weed fight.

Constance vigilance:  

1.   Hire a local: Having a part-time yard man is very affordable in this country. Even if you prefer to get your hands dirty, as I do, weed control involves intensive back-bending and lifting that I often delegate. You may have to train your assistant as the local approach to plant maintenance is to whack it with a machete; other techniques need to be introduced.

2.   Be a mulching maniac. Mulch acts as a suffocating blanket by preventing light from reaching weed seeds. At the same time, it holds moisture for your plants and provides nutrients for your soil as it decomposes. CAUTION: avoid using wood chip mulch (as is typical in northern latitudes as it will become a home for undesirables-  such as termites, carpenter ants, scorpions- in the tropics. Shredded coco hulls or lava rocks are better.

3.   Water those weeds. Pulling weeds is easier and more efficient when the soil is moist; therefore, plan your weed attack for after a rain or garden soaking.  You are more likely to get the whole root system, and your yanking won't disturb surrounding plants as much either.  Wait until you see the weed photos that follow!

4.   Cut weeds down in their prime. To stop weeds from spreading, pluck off their flower heads before they drop seed. This technique can be especially helpful with annual weeds, which love to provide generation after generation of weeds.

5.   Pass the salt. Try sweeping rock salt into crevices between paths. Although more harsh, borax also works well. Be sure to wear rubber gloves with the latter material. You might need to apply a few doses, but be aware of any surrounding plants because both products kill the good plants along with the bad.   

6.   Lay down the law. Try using landscape fabric as a weed controller. Landscape fabric is usually made of a nonwoven, porous polypropylene fabric, which enables air, water, and nutrients to reach the soil but keeps weed seeds in a dark, cool environment where they can't germinate. You lay down the fabric, cut a hole where your plants are positioned or will be planted, then cover the fabric with a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch or gravel.

7.   Boil them alive. If you have pesky weeds in a spot with no nearby grass or valuable plants, boil water and pour it over the unsuspecting weeds. To control the stream of boiling water and to save surrounding plants and your toes from a scalding, use a teakettle. This works well along pathways or on sidewalk cracks.

8.   To compost or not to compost. After you've labored to rid your garden of weeds, be careful that you don't throw weeds onto the compost heap where they can drop seed and infect your entire yard. However, you can throw weeds on a hot compost pile where they should cook at 200 degrees or higher for several weeks to ensure the seeds are killed. Just to be safe, I don’t add weeds to my compost.

9.   Old-fashioned elbow grease. Weed every couple of days throughout the growing season in order to stay in control of the weed situation. I try to pull a weed as soon as I see it when watering or just walking through the yard besides having a regular weekly session.  If you're going to get down and dirty, use a comfortable knee cushion or try pads to lessen the impact of weeding on your body.

10.                Solar-powered soil preparation. Solarization uses heat to disinfect your soil. Since we have abundant sunshine, this is a great strategy to start out with a clean plot for planting.  If you have a planting bed or area of lawn that you want to begin to use, till the area to clear all vegetation. Then water the area until it is saturated. Wait 24 hours, then cover with clear 3- to 6-mil plastic sheeting. Bury the edges of the sheeting to seal it. Let the soil cook for four to six weeks, then remove the plastic. If any weeds appear, remove them. Wait a few days for the soil to cool, then start planting. This method helps get rid of many soil-borne diseases as well.

1.     

Notice that I have not advocated using chemicals to eliminate weeds. Yes, Round-up type herbicides are effective and available from the four veterinarian supply shops in La Penita. It just seems healthier for me, my pet, and the environment to limit their use in my yard.

I.D. your weeds. If you can identify the sprouting menaces in your yard, you can control their reseeding habits better. Annual weeds complete their growing cycle from seed to plant in a few months, then die. Unfortunately, they can leave behind thousands of babies if they go to seed, so always try to remove annuals before they drop seeds. Perennial weeds usually live for at least three years and are more difficult to banish, so at first sighting remove them immediately.  The list includes only those weeds that I see in the La Penita-Guayabitos area.

Bindweed/morning glory. Broadleaf perennial loves the sun.  Invasive arrowhead shape leaves on twining vines that grow over structures.  Wandering root system produces  offspring 20-30 feet from the mother vine.

Black  medic.  Broadleaf annual that thrives in poor, dry soil in full sun.  The taproot supports a one foot wide cluster of outshoot stems with clover-like leaves and small yellow flowers. Be sure you get to the main stem when pulling. You can discourage this weed by keeping soil well watered and amended with organic matter (commercial mix potting soil).

Broadleaf  plantain.  Broad, flat leaves around a low rosette that grows 12 wide with seed spikes producing 15,000 seeds. Prefers moist areas in sun or shade.

Chickweed mouse ear.  Short broadleaf annual that grows in thick mats with small star-shape flowers. Heavy seed production. Prefers rich moist soil in sun or shade.

Crabgrass: Annual grass that is invasive because it grows roots anywhere the stem makes soil contact besides the seed heads easily propagate and produce 150,000 seeds per plant. Grows to 20 inches wide in sun or shade.

Creeping Charlie.   Shade loving broadleaf perennial groundcover that only grows 4 inches high but several feet wide. Circular scalloped leaves  with clusters of purple flowers in spring.

Curly dock.   Broadleaf perennial that can produce up to 40,000 seeds that can wait decades before sprouting.  This one is a real nuisance in garden. Dock lives in sun or shade, has wavy-edge leaves and large seed heads covered with brown seeds.  Grows up  to 4 feet tall, 2 ft. wide.

Dayflower: This annual grass relative grows to30 inches tall with dark green leaves that clasp a stem. It has blue flowers throughout the summer.  Tolerates shade and grows in full sun.

 Foxtail.  Annual grass that prefers sunny disturbed ground, i.e. road sides, gardens, agricultural fields.  Blade-like leaves grow in clumps up to 2 ft. tall with bushy seed clusters that give the plant its name. Common in sidewalk cracks.

Caution: foxtail seeds can get caught in a dog’s eyes, ears, or between the toes to cause infection.

Lamb’s quarter.  A broadleaf annual that grows to 4 ft. tall and 18 in. wide. It thrives in sun or shade.  The bright green scalloped leaves have gray undersides.

Nettle.  Broadleaf perennial that grows up to 6 ft tall.  It thrives in garden areas with rich, moist soil in sunny areas. Touching the sawtooth-edge leaves that are covered with stinging hairs gives a burning sensation that lasts for hours. Small yellowish flower clusters also irritate skin. 

Nutsedge.  Grass-like perennial loves warm, moist tropical conditions.  It is difficult to control due to underground tubular root system and its clustering growth habit.  Shiny, grassy light green leaves grows in sun but tolerates shade.  Less numerous as the dry season progresses.

Oxalis.  Broadleaf perennial that loves rich, moist garden soil in sun or shade. Light green clover-like leaves have cup shaped yellow flowers in summer and fall.  Edible in small quantities.    

 Plantain.  Very plentiful during the rainy season as this broadleaf perennial likes sunny moist lawn or garden areas. The broad, flat leaves grow around a low rosette; each plant can produce more than 15,000 seeds.  

 Pigweed.  This tall (to 6 ft) broadleaf annual can take over a sunny landscape or garden area.  The plant has a long tap root and produces hairy-looking clusters of green flowers.

Pokeweed. A broadleaf perennial that grows to 10 ft. tall in the sun. Light green leaves with clusters of white flowers and dark purple berries.

 Prostrate Spurge.  A rapid spreading broadleaf annual that thrives in sunny, dry soil.  The Green with purple leaves form dense mats that radiate out from a center taproot.

Purslane.   This prostrate, fleshy, succulent loves the heat and dry season of the tropics. A broadleaf annual that grows in poor, compacted soil and drought. Low growing groundcover with plump dark green leaves and small yellow flowers at the end of the stems.

Quackgrass.  This grassy perennial gets up to 3 ft. tall and several feet wide if not eradicated in your yard.  It has wheatlike flower spikes above a slender clump of grassy foliage. Prefers full sun but will tolerate shade.

Quickweed. This broadleaf annual can take over a sunny garden. It has jagged, hairy leaves and small white flowers in summer.

Smartweed.  One of the few broadleaf annuals that wildlife will eat.  This upright plant with pink summer flowers and lancelike leaves marked with purple grows to about a meter tall  in full sun.

Thistle.  A very thorny broadleaf biennial that has an extensive root system. The tall stems grow to 6 ft with prickly leaves topped by heavy 2 inch purple flowers.

White Clover.   Broadleaf perennial that prefers sunny moist, rich soil,  Low growing plants with three-lobe leaves that frame round, white flower clusters.  Extensive shallow root system and the plant propagate by growing roots where stems touch the ground besides by seeds.

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