April 21, 2011             Mexico Travel Page 5

Puerto Vallarta: A Great Gay Spring Getaway
 

Psst, don't tell anyone, but now is one of the best times of year to visit Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. The water is warmer, there is still plenty of sun, and the hotel rates are lower than during the busy winter months. Hotel rates drop even more by June 1, but that is the start of the rainy season, although it generally rains in the evenings, so your day at the beach probably won't be rained out.

Gay Puerto Vallarta is showing no signs of slowing down. More and more tours, hotels, bars, and restaurants are actively courting the gay community. That trend is backed by a recent survey. A 2010 poll by San Francisco-based Community Marketing, a gay marketing firm, found that Puerto Vallarta is the most popular gay foreign destination in the Americas, narrowly beating Vancouver, Toronto, and Montreal.

The gay scene in Puerto Vallarta is on the south side of the city in an area known as Zona Romantica, or the Romantic Zone. Some also call it the Old Town, but that is a misnomer since downtown Puerto Vallarta is much older.

Zona Romantica is also where the city's public beach is located. Los Muertos Beach starts near the Rio Cuale, which is the river that separates downtown from the Romantic Zone. The unofficial gay section of the beach is called Blue Chairs Beach. It is on the southern end of Los Muertos Beach in front of the Blue Chairs Hotel. But immediately to the south, the Green Chairs Beach is just as gay, and the section of the beach to the north in front of the Lido Beach Club is nearly as gay.

One of the best features of Puerto Vallarta is that everything is easily walkable. Don't think of renting a car here. There are a couple of dozen gay bars and about a dozen gay hotels within easy walking distance. And Puerto Vallarta is very safe. The city often gets painted with a broad negative brush after reports surface on drug-related violence mostly in border towns of Mexico.

Puerto Vallarta as a tourist destination has a long gay legacy. The 1964 movie, The Night of the Iguana, first put Puerto Vallarta on the map as a resort destination. That film was based on a story by gay playwright Tennessee Williams. Elizabeth Taylor, who died last week, was not in the movie but she tagged along with Richard Burton, with whom she was having an affair. Both Taylor and Burton were married to other people at the time and the paparazzi descended on the city, giving it priceless publicity.

Gays helped fuel a second renewal in Puerto Vallarta just over 20 years ago. That's when the city's gay founding father, Paco Ruiz, first opened his landmark gay bar Club Paco Paco. For a time, Club Paco Paco and Balcones were the only gay bars in town.

Ruiz stood up to regulatory authorities and refused to pay them bribes. He was eventually arrested after refusing to be closed by them after two lesbians were seen kissing in his bar. He publicly talked about his troubles during an international TV talk show that was broadcasting from the city. The additional media attention and public sympathy for Ruiz's plight eventually resulted in changes and more acceptance of gays in the city.

Gays are now entrenched in Zona Romantica, where you will find the rainbow flag everywhere. Olas Altas is Zona Romantica's main street and gays played a huge part in the resurgence of the street and neighborhood.

Daylife

A number of gay-focused tours are a must for any visitor to Puerto Vallarta. It is a good idea to take a tour near the start of your vacation. You will meet new friends that you will run into all week long.

For more than 10 years, Diana's Tours has developed a loyal following. It is run by Diana DeCoste, a gay woman and a fixture in Puerto Vallarta. Her daylong tour runs every Thursday and sometimes on Fridays if there is a big demand. The cruise books up early in the busy winter months, so book ahead if you are traveling then. Diana's Tours has the distinction of being the number one ranked tour, gay or straight, in Puerto Vallarta on TripAdvisor.com. The tour includes a continental breakfast, a stop at a beachfront restaurant and unlimited booze, soft drinks, and snacks. The first stop is the landmark Los Arcos, the huge hollowed out rocks through which you can snorkel. The tour guests are mostly gay male, but lesbians are welcome and it is straight friendly.

The Wet and Wild gay cruise is another way to spend a fun gay day on the bay. The eparts Puerto Vallarta twice a week with half-day sunset cruises on Wednesday and half-day day cruises on Saturday. The tour is almost exclusively gay male and although the staff maintains a fun atmosphere, it tends to be very sexually charged. Near the start of the cruise they announce that it is the goal for everyone to leave drunk and having gotten laid. The cruise includes a full complement of friendly strippers who work the crowd for tips.

For the more adventurous, several tour companies offer gay zip-line and ATV tour days. For a complete list check out GayGuideVallarta.com or when you get in town, visit the concierge desk at the Blue Chairs Hotel for information and tickets to all gay excursions. Jeff Scates usually works the concierge desk and is a great resource for all things gay in Puerto Vallarta. Beware of timeshare salesmen who promise free tours in exchange for viewing a presentation. I had two friends who wound up spending most of the day in a presentation that was supposed to take 90 minutes. In the end, they never got the tour they were promised and wound up having to pay the salesman $40 USD.

Nightlife

A new service called Gay Vallarta Bar-Hopping is a must for first time visitors or for returning visitors who want to know what's new in the city. The $40 USD tour includes five bars and two nightclubs with free drinks at all stops. The tour starts out at 7 pm on Thursdays and Fridays and begins with a stop at the Fuego Restaurant, where you can grab a bite for 50 percent off. Another tour on Wednesdays includes a longer restaurant stop and includes stops at gay local bars. The tour also includes a package of coupons valued at $40.

The most popular gay bars in town are Paco's Ranch, Club Mañana, and La Noche. La Noche recently expanded and took over the furniture store next door, more than doubling its space. People tend to start at La Noche or one of the smaller gay bars in Puerto Vallarta, before moving on to Paco's Ranch or Club Mañana, which are open all night for dancing (but you won't see anyone in there until after midnight and they don't really get going until after 1 am.) Paco's Ranch is open seven nights a week but Club Mañana is only open weekends, at least until the start of the busy winter season, which gets under way around Thanksgiving. (The smaller stripper bar, Tease, that is attached to Club Mañana, is still open every night.) Club Mañana is the largest gay club in the city and has an open-air dance floor, so if you are sensitive to cigarette smoke, this is the place for you to breath free. Smoking is still allowed in bars in the city.

There are no lesbian bars in Puerto Vallarta but both Club Mañana and Paco's Ranch are women-friendly. The smaller lesbian-owned Apaches bar on Olas Altas is always busy and is also women-friendly. The Chill Out Lounge is also owned by a lesbian couple and is known for attracting a very diverse crowd. Apaches and the nearby Sama martini bar are great places to stop and people watch along Olas Altas. Sama is known for its exotic cocktails, so check out the menu before ordering your same old. The Palm is a cabaret space right next to Sama. It is the spot where gay-friendly acts perform.

The bar on the roof of the Blue Chairs Hotel is a must-stop at sunset. Check out the schedule of entertainment first. Every night starts off with male strippers. Some nights also feature drag shows, karaoke, or gay bingo.

Strippers are a big trend in gay Puerto Vallarta. The newest gay bar in town is Wet Dreams. It features strippers who take it all off and shower in a glass booth behind the main bar.

Accommodations

Casa Cupula, owned by San Franciscan Don Pickens, is a gay boutique hotel and one of the finest hotels – gay or straight – in Puerto Vallarta. It is on a hill just a short 10-minute walk from Olas Altas and the heart of gay Puerto Vallarta. Amenities include a new gym, a pool, and two hot tubs. Continental breakfast is included in the hotel's fabulous Taste Restaurant. The restaurant is worth stopping by for cocktails or for a meal anytime. It's easy to see why this place consistently gets great reviews.

The Blue Chairs Hotel, under the direction of gay American sales manager James Berryman, is getting better than ever. A second rooftop deck and a new wading pool were added on top of the roof deck. Blue Chairs also has a couple of lookout decks on top of the top floor, complete with a replica Statue of Liberty. All the hotel's rooms have been remodeled and the hotel is fighting to repair the damage to its reputation during the rocky transition between the former owners, who had leased the hotel to the current owners, who are the longtime owners of the building.

Hotel Mercurio is a great choice in the heart of gay Puerto Vallarta, just a half-block from Olas Altas street. Its budget rates include a fabulous buffet breakfast. This is particularly a good place for anyone traveling alone. You will easily make new friends at breakfast or during the hotel's poolside daily cocktail hour.

The Hotel Amaca underwent a complete top-to-bottom renovation following its previous incarnation as the Descanso del Sol. The hotel is on a hill just a five-minute walk from the heart of gay Zona Romantica. It prominently displays the rainbow flag at the top of its upper deck.

Eating out

The Swedes Restaurant is owned by a Swedish couple who took over the old space occupied by the Picnic Restaurant. The space is built into a hillside on Olas Altas and features great street views and nice ocean breezes. While everyone is welcome, the owners boast that they proudly are a gay restaurant. The restaurant features dishes from different parts of Europe and yes, even a Swedish dish or two.

The gay-owned El Mole de Jovita Restaurant is known for its gourmet mole, the famous Mexican sauce.

The upscale beachfront Club Lido Restaurant opened in November and has already drawn a loyal following. It's just north of the Blue Chairs Beach.

El Arrayan, in downtown Puerto Vallarta, makes it to the top of everyone's list as one of the best Mexican restaurants in Mexico. It's owned by Carmen Porras, an out lesbian originally from Mexico City.

The aforementioned Taste Restaurant at Casa Cupula is a restaurant not to be missed for gourmet food with great views but with moderate prices.

Getting there and around

Alaska Air and United fly nonstop to Puerta Vallarta from San Francisco International. The flight is a little over three hours.

A taxi from the airport to Zona Romantica costs about $25 USD. It's about $10 cheaper to get a taxi back to the airport because taxis are accessed a fee to pick passengers up at the airport.

A much better way to go is to reserve a car through Diana's Tours. It only costs $20 USD for the same ride and you will be treated like a VIP with someone holding your name on a sign as soon as you exit customs.

You can also walk the pedestrian bridge across the highway to the yellow taxis on the other side. Fares are negotiable but expect to pay $5-$10 less than you would pay for a taxi from the airport.

Once you get in town, cab fares are set at 40 pesos, or about $3.35, for anywhere within the Romantic Zone or downtown. Taxi drivers don't expect tips unless they give you extra service such as helping you with luggage. As mentioned, Puerto Vallarta is very walkable but it's a good idea to take a cab back to your hotel late at night if you are alone or have had a lot to drink.

For more information, the excellent guide, "Gay Guide Vallarta," is published by former Bay Area resident Mark Page, and is a great resource. You can pick up a free hard copy in town or check it out online at GayGuideVallarta.com.

edwalsh94105(at)yahoo.com

Spring Parade in La Penita

Photos by the Baron

Tula

Photography by Bill and Dot Bell

Tula was the capital city of the Toltec Indian Empire. The ruins can still be found forty miles northwest of present day Mexico City which is located on the northern edge of Mesoamerica. It is situated in the Mexican state of Hidalgo and is placed near the modern town of Tula de Allende. The area is in the Valley of Aahuac or what is now called the Valley of Mexico. It is one of the most arid regions where little can be grown, with the exception of maguey, an intrinsic supplier of needles, sap and other products used by the Toltecs. In addition, the city is located on a natural promontory with steep slopes surrounding the city on three sides.

The city rose to power after the collapse of Teotihuacan to take control of the basin of Mexico at approximately 968 AD. Even though the city attempted to fill the political shoes of Teotihuacan, the evidence shows that the city was much smaller. The city is laid out on a grid pattern with a ceremonial core and surrounded by pyramids. The city was organized into households which are approximately 1,970 feet (600 meters) square. Inside of these formal households were square or rectangular flat-roofed houses which were grouped into as many as five dwellings which all shared a shrine. The city ruins are characterized by giant stone warriors placed at the temples by the Toltecs.

It's maximum size and power was achieved between 950 and 1150 AD and its largest population was between 40,000 and 60,000 people. Its largest geographic size was between 13 and 16 square kilometers. There is much archeological evidence that shows that Tula had lost much of its power and was at least partially abandoned by the year 1200 AD. Many experts think this phenomenon occurred due to a drought and famine which ravaged the city. With the collapse of the city, the temples and pyramids of Tula were razed by other Indian tribes.

Toniná   ¨House of rocks¨

Mayan House Yucatan Photograph by Bill Bell

Valley of the The Throat Cutters

Photography by Bill Bell and Larry Baron

Bill, Dylan and Dot Bell in the Valley of the Throat cutters, on the road to Alta Vista, Nayarit,Larry Baron Photograph

The Altavista petroglyph complex is located near the village and beach-town of Chacala, south of the Compostela Municipality, in Nayarit Mexico.  Click on any small photograph to see in a larger format

The area is known as "La Pila del Rey", "Chacalán", "El Santuario", "The Petroglyphs” or "the Altavista petroglyphs", near the Jaltemba Bay, in the Pacific Ocean of Nayarit

This region was originally home to the largely unstudied Tecoxquin (Tequectequi) native culture dating from approximately 2000 BC to 2300 BCE. It contains 56 petroglyphs whose antiquity cannot be accurately determined. Aside from its cultural and archeological importance, the site remains an important religious center for the Huicholes who still leave offerings and perform ceremonies here.

In prehispanic times, the Compostela municipality area was inhabited by the Mazatán peoples, tributary of Xalisco-Zacualpan Kingdom

To read an indepth article on this wonderful historical site click here

Church Bells on the Yucatan Photograph by Bill Bell

Chichen Itza

Photos by Bill Bell

Olmec Head Photograph by Bill Bell

Laura Gelezunas - VideoDivaProductions.com

In this edition of Simply Puerto Vallarta, Laura talks with Canadian RVers who cross two international borders to get to their winter home in Mexico. (Video Diva Productions)

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They can't wait to get on the road again, especially those driving motor homes to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

"We stick to the highways and with our rigs we have to," says Richard Chenier from Quebec, "And we just roll along." His wife Mado Babin says she enjoys the road because they travel with good friends, take their time and she sites having a good driver as part of the experience.

Almost everyone in an RV park just outside of downtown Puerto Vallarta is from Canada so they cross two international borders. Richard says it's pretty standard entering the United States from Canada and usually takes a very short time.

There are 42 places where you can cross the almost 2000 mile border between the US and Mexico. This year travelers were thinking ahead because of all the media hype. "Of course we heard on the news everything about it, just like everybody else, it was a concern to us but we decided to contact friends that we would meet at the border and cross as a big group," says Richard, "We thought it would be safer that way and we decided that we were going to come down anyway."

"We spent about a week in Pharr, Texas close to the border," says Richard, "We formed a line and we crossed the border. There was ten of us, and actually that was the smoothest border crossing ever. I have been down here five years in a row, and it was my easiest, I guess they were waiting for us, but there was nothing wrong, usually there are a lot of check points, and stuff like that from either the police or military, but we just had one spot where they checked us."

"I've been coming down here for 12 years and we've never had an incident on the highway," says Dirk Miller of Kentucky, "And crossing the border there was no difficulties and this year was just as easy as any other year and the only thing I noticed this year, closer to the border, within a 100 miles, was a lot of Federales, but that's just different this year, I noticed there was less military in the interior of Mexico this year, too, but everything else was the same."

According to these experts, driving through Mexico is a breeze and the locals are very friendly.

"It's great as far as I'm concerned," says Richard, The roads are 80 percent A1, and last year we had an experience, if you break down on the toll highways, they have what they call the Green Angels, and geez they are right there and they take you anywhere you have to get fixed, and it's usually at ridiculously low prices, too, it's really great."

"I've had breakdowns with my coach in Mexico and all the Mexican people would come out to help me with whatever it was," says Dirk, "Whether it was a fire or a blown tire, or had any kind of a problem, they would practically come out in great numbers to help us."

"I was near Patzcuaro and I made a wrong turn one time with my motor home and my car got hung up on a curb," says Dirk, "And about 12 guys came out of this village and lifted my car up on to the curb for me so I could get it unhitched so I could get it around the corner. And then I didn't know where the auto pista (highway) was and so I asked a fella to show me the autopista and all of a sudden he showed up on a bicycle with his daughter on the cross bar and he peddled up over hills for about three kilometers to show me where the autopista was and I was kinda going slowly behind him and he kept waving for me to hurry up because he wanted to go faster, but that was a good experience and it was most helpful. We gave him some candy and some money and everybody was happy."

These RV snowbirds say they would not miss a season in Puerto Vallarta and hope others do not curtail their plans for a winter in paradise.



Simply Puerto Vallarta is a multi-media promotion campaign that highlights the richness and diversity of Mexico's premier coastal tourist town. Unlike traditional PR efforts, the video series was designed to put the media message back into the hands of those it most affects - area residents.

Click HERE for more Simply Puerto Vallarta videos.

San Cristobal de las Casas

Slide Show - Bill Bell Photos

San Cristobal de las Casas

by Bill & Dorothy Bell

 High in the Chiapas mountains lies the picturesque City of San Cristobal de las Casas. Known throughout the world as the home of the Zapatista rebels and the Indian uprising, this city is an uneasy mix of two distinct and opposed cultures.

The deep yellow cathedral near the zocalo is a perfect place to people watch. Indians from the area come daily to sell their handiwork. Kids nag you for a peso or two, sometimes with the lure of some Chiclets or other candy. Tourists from throughout the world come to photograph and capture a lifestyle of the past

Riviera Nayarit, Where Whales Leave a Trail
RivieraNayarit.com
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The yearly official whale watching season opens between December and March in Riviera Nayarit. This year, these cetaceans are already starting to arrive.

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Marco squints his eyes and then points his finger towards an extremely smooth patch shaped as a giant foot on the surface of the ocean. "There's the trail", he points out. This could be the trail of a Yeti, only on the surface of the waters of Bahia de Banderas. Everybody onboard the Isis sailboat knows exactly what they're about to experience and can barely contain their excitement.

They've been looking for these whales for over two hours with no luck, and the crowd is now completely silent. Suddenly, a small whale calf emerges, followed by its mother, and a common sigh can be heard before everyone exclaims in amazement.

Every year thousands of humpback whales, the largest mammals in the world, visit Riviera Nayarit, offering an overwhelming show for those who have the chance to experience it.

The official 2011 sighting season begins on December 8 and ends on March 23. The Environment and Wildlife Secretariat (SEMARNAT by its initials in Spanish) will grant 200 permits to vessels that offer whale watching tours. Every crewmember has been trained to offer the best possible experience to visitors without affecting the natural habitat of the whales.

For a seasoned sailor like Marco, whale watching is much more than a pastime. The captain of the Isis is used to following them like an experienced hunter "although the only thing that's being fired here are the visitor's cameras" he says with a smile.

The humpbacks are already here; Marco knows it and even though he is currently offering a tour to the Marietas Islands, he doesn't miss the opportunity of showing tourists this pair of whales that are visiting Bahia de Banderas. All he has to do is follow their trail.

When a whale swims underwater, the movement of its tail creates turbulence in the water, which then eases off in the surface above, creating an almost perfect "footprint". "The footprint appears gradually, first here and then over there... and then a little more to the right. This is how we follow the whale wherever it goes until it comes out to the surface to breathe. It's just a matter of being patient", says Marco.

There are countless spots where one can enjoy whale watching in Riviera Nayarit, from San Blas to Nuevo Vallarta, sometimes close to the coast and sometimes by following them on an authorized vessel.

In San Blas and Rincon de Guayabitos it's common to find pods of young whales fighting over a female by doing spectacular leaps over the water and by clashing their bodies to impress her. In Bahia de Banderas, females protect their calves and teach them how to dive.

Marco's occupation is relatively new, because even though whale watching is as old as the region itself, the tourist industry has only exploited the activity in the last 15 years.

"Previously, day cruises were all about partying and drinking. If we saw any whales, it was nice as they've always offered a great show, but it wasn't until recent times that whale watching tours became a specific tourist activity", says Marco.

He isn't mistaken; whales have always offered a beautiful display, especially in the waters of Bahia de Banderas, which at some point in the XVI and XVII centuries of the colonial rule was known as the Bahia del Jorobado (Humpback Bay), precisely because of the large number of whales that visit the bay during the winter.

However, humpback whales aren't the only ones that visit our bay; occasionally one can find gray whales and the main predator of humpbacks: killer whales. If you're lucky enough you can come across all three species in the same trip.

The reward finally comes when the mother flaps her tail on the water and then disappears for a couple of minutes. Marco tightens his lip and doesn't utter a word, as he knows what's about to happen. The mother has submerged to generate thrust and suddenly she leaps out of the water, concluding the exhibition.


About Riviera Nayarit: Mexico’s newest destination, Riviera Nayarit, stretches along 192 miles of pristine Pacific coast framed by the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains just ten minutes north of accessible Puerto Vallarta International Airport. The region extends along the entire coast of the Pacific state of Nayarit including the resorts of Nuevo Vallarta, the historic colonial town of San Blas, exclusive Punta Mita, picturesque fishing villages, miles of serene beaches and spectacular Banderas Bay. Riviera Nayarit offers countless activities, all pleasantly affordable, such as: PGA golf courses, luxury spas, whale watching, turtle release, zip lining, surfing, record deep sea fishing, bird watching, international cuisine, and shopping for local artwork and traditional Huichol handicrafts. The region attracts and satisfies vacationers of all tastes and budgets with its wide range of accommodations including chic luxury resorts, eco-tourism boutique hotels and quaint B&B inns. Visit the website at RivieraNayarit.com

Vic Pittman - PVNN
December 01, 2010

 

How a quest for a cheeseburger led me to one of the coolest bars ever and so much more...

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Hamburguesas ...the signs are everywhere. I was surprised when I first came to San Blas to see so many hamburger stands. I love Mexican food, but every so often a taste of home is the cat's meow. Nothing says taste of home to me like a good cheeseburger. So I was comforted to find that even down here in San Blas, I could get a hamburger... or so I thought.

Do you enjoy the sensation of biting down through the different layers of toasted bread, tomato, onion, bacon, cheese and lettuce? Forget it...it isn't going to happen. The "hamburgers" here are a different animal entirely. They usually are comprised of a slice of ham lunch meat ("ham" is in the name, right?) an equally thin patty of ground beef, lots of runny whitish cheese and if tomato, onion or lettuce are involved, it is chopped up finely like salsa.

I was lamenting (bitching) about this to a friend of mine who seemed surprised that I had not heard about Billy Bob's Roadhouse and Honky Tonk right here in San Blas. He told me that the burgers, chicken club sandwiches and salads there were incredible, so I decided to check it out.

My first impression of the place was great... eclectic-retro decor, a nice big bar and plenty of room. The incredible smell of chicken fried steak, potatoes and gravy filled the place that day, making me think about changing my dinner plans, but I was on a quest for what I was told would be an awesome cheeseburger.

I ordered the cheeseburger basket and Glenda the chef (tall, beautiful and with a smile that will make you forget your first name, I might add) got right on it. Having been here a while, I am used to waiting... much more than I like to, but my meal was on my table in no time at all.

You know in the cartoons when someone is in love and you can see their heart thumping through their chest? That was me when I saw and picked up that cheeseburger. It had all the bells and whistles... a nice sized beef patty, YELLOW cheese, nice thick slices of lettuce tomato and onion, and even bacon! I have to say that it was the best cheeseburger I may have ever eaten... anywhere.

I was back the next day and got the chicken club sandwich that made me seriously consider proposing to Glenda, but I needed to get my nerve up so I ordered a White Russian from the barmaid Layla whose great smile and infectious laugh make the place very pleasant.

It was a huge drink, was delicious and like all the drinks at Billy Bob's, had double shots. I had another then decided I shouldn't propose while inebriated (been there-done that), so Glenda was off the hook... that day. Her menu is versatile and her Chef's Specials are fantastic! The ever-increasing dinner and lunch crowd attests to her skills.

Billy Bob's is a most interesting establishment. It is named after the owner, Billy Bob Bosen, who is as unique and interesting as his name suggests. He originally hails from Idaho, and while he enjoys the local cuisine and the abundant seafood here in San Blas, he loves homestyle American food. He and Glenda have created an oasis of Comida Americana here on the beautiful Riviera Nayarit.

On weekends, a variety of local musicians perform at Billy Bob's... classic rock, country, blues, jazz and Mexican folk music can sometimes be heard all in the same evening. So far there has never been a cover charge.

And if great food, generous drinks and good music were not enough, there is a live crocodile in the bar! "Fluffy" is a 15 foot long crocodile that "came with the bar." The experts at the nearby crocodile preserve said that since she is old and has been in captivity for most of her 65 years, to move her would not be good at this point. She lives in a "lagoon" in the courtyard just outside the bar.

I went to the Halloween party this year and saw everything from horses in the bar (two of them), to a Mariachi band, to heavy metal that night with most of the music provided by Warren and John, the house musicians. Their easy listening style of music is great with most of their original songs written by singer-guitarist Warren who also plays a mean piano.

Do yourself a favor and when you are in San Blas, stop by Billy Bobs. It is located one and a half blocks past (West) the main plaza on Calle Juarez. Bring an open mind and an empty stomach! By the way, I did indeed propose to Glenda and we are now happily married and living in San Blas with our dog, cat, and our raccoon, Santiago.